A Scottish Gamekeeper’s Experience in Africa

Posted by Limpopo-Lipadi on Tue June 17, 2025.

First time outside Europe — and straight into the heart of the wild… Sophie, a Scottish gamekeeper, shares her unforgettable experiences at Limpopo-Lipadi: from rhino tracking and starlit sleep-outs to heart-racing elephant and lion encounters.

“As a gamekeeper in the Scottish Highlands, much of my work revolves around wildlife conservation and management. I’ve long dreamed of experiencing Africa’s wilderness firsthand — and thanks to my friends Paul and Sally who are co-owners at Limpopo-Lipadi, that dream finally came true with a visit to the Reserve.

Having never traveled outside Europe, and after hearing countless stories from co-owners Paul, Sally, and their friends, I knew I couldn’t pass up this once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.

After arriving at OR Tambo Airport, we took a wonderful break at Jembisa Private Game Reserve in South Africa’s Waterberg region — a perfect start to the adventure. From there, we continued north, where I quickly discovered that African potholes are on a whole different scale! Crossing into Botswana and traversing the sandy roads was all part of the thrill.

Upon arriving at Limpopo-Lipadi, we were warmly welcomed by the team. Our accommodation, set in beautiful seclusion by the river, was absolutely idyllic. After a delicious light lunch and a briefing from our guide, Moses, we set off for an evening game drive and sundowner — drinks and nibbles at sunset — followed by a wonderful dinner hosted by Indi.

Our days began before sunrise, mirroring my work back home where early mornings are when wildlife is most active. I particularly loved the fresh sandy tracks each morning — the overnight movements of animals were clearly visible, and Moses’s skill at reading spoor (animal footprints) was fascinating. Having tracked predators in Scottish snow, seeing the sheer size of African animal tracks compared to a Scottish fox was awe-inspiring!

A standout experience was our surprise sleep-out under a magnificent baobab tree. Paul had kept it a secret until we arrived to find tents and dinner cooking over the fire. Venturing into the bush for a nighttime toilet visit with only a torch for safety certainly drove home the wildness of where we were! The night sky was so vivid, the stars seemed close enough to touch.

The next day brought another unforgettable moment: tracking rhinos with the Anti-Poaching Unit (APU). Watching the team expertly follow the faintest tracks and finally spotting a rhino mother and calf just 50 meters away was incredible. Poaching is an issue even back home, but the resources and dedication of the Limpopo-Lipadi APU are truly impressive.

Paul surprised us again the following day with breakfast by the river, close to a group of hippos. As we arrived, the hippos lifted their huge heads from the water, seemingly to greet us. Their snorts and calls became the soundtrack to a perfect morning — later inspiring some hilarious attempts at hippo impressions after a few evening drams!

One of our most thrilling moments came when we encountered an elephant herd at a watering hole. As we watched, a protective mother trumpeted a clear warning just meters from our vehicle. Our hearts raced, but under Moses’s calm guidance, we respectfully withdrew without incident.

Equally unforgettable were the lions. Returning one afternoon to a spot where we had seen them in the morning, the sandy clearing seemed empty — until we drove through a patch of waist-high vegetation and found ourselves staring into a pair of enormous eyes. For a split second, it felt as if the lion was looking directly into my soul. Staying calm and following all the advice I’d been given made the encounter even more rewarding.

Both Jembisa and Limpopo-Lipadi gave me invaluable experiences. At Jembisa, where I had previously worked with the owner in the UK, it was wonderful to explore on foot and see ancient Bushman paintings. Limpopo-Lipadi opened my eyes to the complexities of conservation on a much larger scale — from lion and wild dog management to elephant relocations and rhino protection.

As someone who works with wildlife daily, I deeply respect the work being done on the ground here in Africa. It was fascinating to recognize so many parallels between the work Paul and I do at home and the efforts underway at Limpopo-Lipadi.

I would wholeheartedly recommend a visit to Limpopo-Lipadi to anyone passionate about nature, looking for both peaceful moments and thrilling adventures to remember for a lifetime.

A huge thank you to Paul, Sally, and everyone at Limpopo-Lipadi for making this journey so special. I will treasure these memories for many years to come.”

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